A Beginner’s Guide to Spring Cover Crops

Fall cover crops are a common way to build healthy soil over the off-season, but what about spring? Spring is a key time for getting vegetable crops in the ground, but it can also be a wonderful opportunity to battle the weeds and revitalize the soil before transplanting or sowing your warm season crops. While not as popular as fall cover crops, spring cover crops can be an essential tool for small farmers and gardeners. 

Why Plant Spring Cover Crops?

Cover crops have an enormous list of benefits, but it’s best to focus on just a couple of major goals when you’re selecting and planning spring cover crops.

Suppressing Weeds

Fast-growing spring cover crops are an excellent way to get a head start on the weeds. As they grow, they block out light from reaching the soil, preventing weed seed germination. Some may even out-compete annoying weeds like quack grass!

Oats or a mixture of oats and field peas are a great, quick-growing option for early spring weed suppression. As the season warms up, buckwheat is another great option for suppressing weeds, though you need to plant it after any danger of frost. 

Boosting Nitrogen

Green manure crops (those cover crops you terminate and incorporate into the soil), can be a quick way to add nitrogen and organic matter before a cash crop. Nitrogen-fixing crops like field peas, hairy vetch, or in cool areas, Austrian winter peas, are excellent options for spring green manures. 

These early spring green manures are perfect for sneaking in before summer heavy feeders like sweet corn, hot peppers, or tomatoes. 

Growing Mulch

You can also provide mulch for transplants, with a spring cover crop. Growers cut, roll, or tarp spring cover crops like oats or buckwheat, killing the plants and leaving the material on the bed. Then they transplant summer crops like eggplants or squash directly into the mulched bed. 

Resting Beds

Commercial growers and those folks with sizable gardens will often find it helpful to allow a garden or bed to have an entire season or year to “rest.” This is a great, cheap way to revitalize soil, though it affects your production capacity in the short-term. 

In areas with long seasons like the Southeast, you will probably need to plan multiple successions of cover crops. However, crops like white clover, which will grow the year through, are another popular option.

Covering Pathways & Margins

Few people like mowing, but keeping garden pathways and margins cropped is important for accessibility and weed prevention. Adding cover crops to these areas can help you make the most of your mowing. Sow a crop like white clover, then mow and use the nitrogen-rich clippings to mulch beds or build compost. 

Buckwheat spring cover crops in bloom
Buckwheat

Timing Spring Cover Crops

Understanding your timing is key to selecting an appropriate cover crop for your garden. When can you sow a cover crop? When do you need to terminate the crop? What is going into the bed next? When is your last frost and what is your climate like? These are all important considerations. 

In the Southeast, you can often sow cool-weather cover crops in late winter or very early spring provided your gardens aren’t to water-logged. There are several great cover crop options, like oats, field peas, Austrian winter peas, white clover, and hairy vetch that are fairly tolerant of cold, moist conditions, and minor frost. Look up your hardiness zone to find out your last frost date.

Some cover crops like buckwheat, cowpeas, and sunn hemp thrive in warm weather. These crops are frost sensitive, so you’ll need to sow them after all danger of frost has passed. 

Determining which crop to plant also depends on what your plans are for that bed. If you’re planning on planting that bed in late spring or summer, determine your planting date so you can terminate your cover crop a couple of weeks before that. 

You can also use the warm-season cover crops later in the summer. For example, grow a bed of lettuce in early spring. When it bolts, sow the bed with a warm season crop like buckwheat or sunn hemp. Follow with a fall crop of bush beans. 

Oats
Oats

Spring Cover Crops & Their Benefits

Once you have established your goals and timing for your cover crop, you can select the appropriate species for your garden. Here are a few spring cover crops we recommend and what they excel at:

Oats

Highly effective in cool, spring soil, oats are an excellent way to quickly add tons of organic matter to the garden. Oats mature in about 60 days. For cover crops, harvest them before they go to seed. 

Field Peas

Field peas fix nitrogen and tolerate spring’s cool temperatures well. Their sprawling nature makes them great for suppressing weeds, too. They generally mature in 50 to 75 days. Cut or incorporate after they have fully bloomed but before they set seed.

Oats and field peas are a popular spring cover crop mix. The oats provide great structural support for the nitrogen-fixing peas.

Austrian Winter Peas

These cool-weather loving peas are a great nitrogen-fixing crop for the winter or early spring garden. As a bonus, they offer edible tendrils perfect for spring salads.

In most of the Southeast, we recommend Austrian Winter Peas for fall planting. However, in cool mountainous areas or northern regions, they do well in early spring.

Hairy Vetch

Hairy vetch is another cool weather loving, nitrogen-fixing legume. It’s generally best to sow hairy vetch in the fall, between August 1st and November 1st. However, it can be spring sown, and is common in vetch, oat, and field pea mixes. 

You may cut vetch and use it as a mulch for transplanting into or till it under as a green manure.

White Clover

White clover is a perennial cover crop that’s fairly tolerant of trampling and mowing. It makes excellent lawns, borders, and pathways around vegetable gardens and its clippings can help give beds a rich boost. It’s also an excellent long-term cover crop. 

However, it’s slow to establish and not as ideal for smothering weeds. You will need to prepare the ground and keep it moist. 

Buckwheat

Buckwheat is an excellent option for weed suppression and adding organic matter. It’s incredibly fast-growing and puts on tons of mass which can act as mulch or help lighten heavy soils. It also attracts beneficial insects. 

Buckwheat readily self seeds. If you’re using it as a cover crop, cut or roll it in 30 to 40 days when it’s blooming, but before it has put on seed. 

Keep in mind that you may have different experiences in a different climate. For example, clover thrives where SESE is in the eastern United States but may struggle in arid climates.

Cover crops are a cost-effective, organic way to improve your soil in any season. Selecting appropriate spring cover crops can help you increase soil fertility, add organic matter, suppress weeds, and attract beneficial insects. Which will you be sowing this season? 

How do Seed Growers Preserve Open Pollinated Varieties?

Open pollinated varieties are those crops pollinated through natural functions like wind, pollinators like bees, and water. They produce seeds that will grow into plants that are similar to the parent plant. This method of seed saving likely pre-dates modern agriculture and is the oldest seed saving method. We currently offer over 700 hundred varieties of open pollinated seed. 

So how do our seed growers and seed savers maintain all these varieties without cross pollination (the mixing of pollen between separate varieties)? There are several simple methods to isolate open pollinated crops. 

All crops listed as heirlooms are also open pollinated. The heirloom designation means that an open pollinated variety dates to 1940 or earlier. 

Tomato flowersIsolation by Distance

One of the most common ways to isolate open pollinated varieties is by distance. We include isolation distances for all our crops in our growing guides, so you can use this method to save seed. You’ll notice that we list a distance for home use and for pure seed, which is important for professional seed growers. 

A great example is our tomato growing guide:

Isolate varieties of the common tomato (L. lycopersicum) by a minimum of 35’ for home use and 75’ to 150’ for pure seed. Isolate varieties of the currant tomato (L. pimpinellifolium) species from all other tomato species by a minimum of 150’. 

Reaching isolation distances can be tough, especially for growers looking for pure seed. That’s why even many seed growers will stick to just a couple varieties of one crop.

However, if you’re looking to save seed for home use, this isn’t as critical. A little cross pollination can increase genetic diversity and isn’t the end of the world!

You can also get creative with some other isolation methods.

Contender (Buff Valentine) Bush Snap Beans
Contender (Buff Valentine) Bush Snap Beans

Isolation Through Time

Another great way to isolation open pollinated varieties is through time. When crops don’t bloom at the same time, there’s no way for them to cross pollinate. 

Some crops naturally bloom at different times. If you find two varieties with vastly different days to maturity and limited bloom periods, you can often get away with planting them at the same time. 

For example, planted on the same day, Aunt Mary’s Sweet Corn, which is ready to harvest in just 69 days, won’t typically cross pollinate with Jellicorse Twin Dent Corn, which takes 120 days to mature. Just keep in mind that environmental conditions can affect the blooming period. 

You can also isolate crops through time by using succession planting, particularly in much of the Southeast where we have long, hot growing seasons. For example, you can sneak in a crop of Gold Rush Yellow Wax Bush Snap Bean (ready to harvest in 52 days) in spring or early summer. Then grow a different bean like Contender (Buff Valentine) Bush Snap Bean (ready to harvest in 49 days) in late summer and fall. 

Hand Pollination and Mechanical Isolation

Occasionally, growers want more control over pollination. This is when more mechanical isolation techniques and hand pollination often come into play. These techniques can be especially helpful for growers trying to breed new open pollinated varieties from a few existing ones. 

Hoop Houses, High Tunnels, Row Cover

Growers often use hoop houses, high tunnels, and row cover to isolate varieties. When kept closed, they can exclude insect pollinators, preventing cross pollination. However, this means that humans will need to hand pollinate plants themselves. 

In the Southeast, it may also be necessary to cover structures like high tunnels with shade cloth to prevent burning the plants. 

Pollination Bags

Alternatively, growers may place pollination bags over the blossoms of each plant. Also called isolation bags or exclusion bags, these bags, usually made of fine mesh, exclude insects and pollen. They prevent natural pollination and allow growers to hand pollinate as desired.

Hand Pollination 

Hand pollination is when humans manually transfer pollen from the stamen or male pollen bearing structure on a plant to the pistil or female structure which produces the fruit and seed. While growers will often hand pollinate to control pollination, they may also do it when other, natural pollination fails. Sadly, pollinator decline has made this strategy more common. 

Usually, growers will use a small paintbrush or Q-Tip to move the pollen, but not always. When hand pollinating corn, you can simply break off a tassel and brush it on the silks of the desired plants. Make sure you use a clean tool for each variety.

If using pollination bags, you must remove the bag, pollinate the flower, and them replace the bag to ensure a bee or other pollinator doesn’t follow in your wake.

The Pueblo County Extension has more helpful hand pollination tips. 

Seed storage at SESE
Seed storage at SESE

Storing Seed 

Another way we can easily isolate varieties is by growing them out in different years. If you’ve been gardening awhile, you probably know that most seed doesn’t expire doesn’t expire after one year.

At SESE, we’re privileged to have a climate controlled seed storage space. We can store many varieties for several years without worrying. Our team checks germination rates periodically and we can work with our network of growers to make sure seed is replenished with fresh stock as needed. 

Our seed storage system allows us and our growers to maintain a wide range of varieties. 

 

Preserving open pollinated varieties is of critical importance. It allows communities, gardeners, and farmers to save seed year after year. This helps preserve genetic diversity, adapt varieties to climate change, and encourages food sovereignty. Which method will you try this season?

Hybrid Versus Open Pollinated Sweet Corn

If you have been perusing the website or catalog, you may have noticed that we carry both open pollinated and hybrid sweet corn. The hybrid sweet corn is actually the only hybrid that we carry. So why do we carry both? What are the differences and how do you choose the right one for your garden? In today’s blog, we’ll discuss the fundamental differences and pros and cons of hybrid and open pollinated corn.

What is Open Pollinated Sweet Corn?

The basic fundamental between hybrid and open-pollinated is how they’re bred. Open pollinated means that the plant is fertilized naturally, like by wind, insects, or birds.

Seed growers save seed from open-pollinated varieties over generations to create varieties that are relatively stable, but still genetically diverse. If you save seed from open pollinated corn, you will get the same corn next season, so long as you don’t have another variety nearby that cross-pollinated it. 

To isolate different varieties, growers usually use distance or time. Crops that flower at different times won’t cross-pollinate.

Heirlooms are open-pollinated varieties dating to before 1940.

Corn is wind pollinated. Home gardeners should separate varieties by 600 ft. for home use, or 1/2 to 1 mile for absolute purity. Save at least 500 seeds from at least 10% of the plants to maintain vigor and genetic diversity of the variety.

Bodacious RM - sugary enhanced hybrid Sweet Corn
Bodacious RM – sugary enhanced hybrid Sweet Corn

What is Hybrid Sweet Corn?

Hybrid crops are the first generation crosses of two varieties. In breeding hybrid sweet corn, seed growers select two genetically pure lines of corn to cross.

Breeding hybrid corn is tricky! Typically, growers will alternate rows of the two types of corn. Though corn has both male and female parts, growers think about them as male and female parents. 

Growers leave the male parent stalks intact. These will provide the pollen for the pollination. Growers remove the tassels from the female parent rows as they form, ensuring that they don’t produce pollen. The pollen from the male parent rows will fertilize the silks of the female parent rows. The growers then harvest the seeds from the female parent rows.

This technique ensures growers get the desired mix of genetics. 

During the season, growers also go through and remove and volunteer or “off-type” corn in a technique called rogueing.

Stowell’s Evergreen Sweet Corn
Stowell’s Evergreen Sweet Corn

Pros and Cons Open Pollinated Sweet Corn

While we love open pollinated crops, we know they come with a unique set of benefits and challenges. 

The Pros

  • Farmers and gardeners can easily save seed from open-pollinated sweet corn.
  • Foodies often find that open-pollinated varieties have more “real corn flavor” rather than just sweetness.
  • Growers can save open-pollinated varieties can over years to adapt to a specific local climate.
  • Home gardeners may enjoy that they tend to have an extended harvest period. 
  • Open-pollinated varieties typically have higher protein content than hybrid varieties. 
  • When pigs, chickens, horses, and cows have a choice between open-pollinated and hybrid corn, the animals invariably prefer the old open-pollinated varieties (possibly because of the protein content).

The Cons

  • They typically aren’t as sugary sweet as hybrid sweet corn varieties.
  • They don’t store well and are best used or preserved quickly after harvest.
  • Open pollinated corn isn’t uniform in size, which can be an issue for commercial growers.
  • It also doesn’t mature all at the same time, another feature which can be a struggle for commercial growers.

Pros and Cons of Hybrid Sweet Corn

While hybrid may be a typical choice for market growers, it too has its pros and cons.

The Pros

  • Hybrid corn tends to mature all at once, which is ideal for market growers. 
  • The ears are uniform in size.
  • They are sugary sweet and hold their sweetness well in storage. 
  • Hybrids often have better disease resistance. 

The uniformity of hybrid sweet size and maturity are the two main reasons we offer hybrid for our commercial growers.

The Cons

  • Hybrid seeds tend to rot in cool soil. 
  • They may have weak seedling vigor. 
  • The ears are more susceptible to insect damage than open pollinated corn. 
  • You cannot reliably save seed from hybrid corn.

Corn Seedlings in a FieldWhich Should You Grow?

What you should grow depends on your needs and personal preferences. As mentioned above, hybrid sweet corn’s uniformity is a key feature for many of our market gardeners, but if you’re looking to enjoy sweet corn over an extended period, open pollinated may be the right choice.

Open pollinated is also a good choice if you’re hoping to save seed. Saving seed from your corn can help preserve genetic diversity, connect you with your land, and adapt a variety to your garden’s specific conditions as you work to save seed from the best plants over the years. 

If open-pollinated corn is new to you, we suggest planting less than 1/4 lb. until you are familiar with its characteristics. It grows a bit differently and has a distinct flavor. Don’t forget, you’ll need to use it more quickly, too. Open pollinated corn doesn’t store quite as well as hybrid corn. 

For good pollination and ear development, plant open-pollinated corn in blocks at least 5-6 rows wide, and hybrid corn in blocks at least 4 rows wide.

Want to save seed from your open pollinated sweet corn? Check out the 8 Steps to Saving Corn Seed.

Saving the Past for the Future