Vegetable Storage: Best Practices

There’s nothing like enjoying vegetables straight from the garden. However, we often have more vegetables that we can use at once. To keep our garden produce fresh for as long as possible, it’s essential to store it properly. Here are the best ways to store your fresh vegetables for longevity and a few ways you can preserve them. 

Room Temperature

While most vegetables store best in cool or cold conditions, fresh herbs often keep best at room temperature. 

Basil

Basil keeps its best flavor and appearance at room temperature. Trim the ends and place them in a jar with a couple of inches of clean water like a bouquet. Basil will last about 5 days.

Magic Cushaw Winter Squash
Magic Cushaw Winter Squash

Cool and Dry (50-60°F and 60% relative humidity) Storage

For most folks, the best option for cool, dry storage will be a basement or semi-heated garage. Each person’s home is different, so monitor the humidity and temperature in your space to ensure it stays in this range. It’s also important to remember to protect your produce from rodents and to provide ventilation. Poor ventilation won’t let your vegetables breathe and can reduce shelf-life. 

Pumpkins & Winter Squash 

Harvest pumpkins and winter squash before frost. Cure for 7-10 days before storage. Keep them somewhere the temperature stays above 45°F for long-term storage. Depending on the variety, they may keep for up to 12 months.

Cold and Dry (32-40°F and 65% relative humidity) Storage

Your refrigerator probably falls within this range. Ensure your refrigerator isn’t dipping below freezing in any spots before using it for long-term storage.

Onions & Garlic

Cure at room temperature for two to four weeks before storage. Don’t store onions and garlic with potatoes or other vegetables that release moisture. Onions and garlic will store for up to 8 months depending on the variety.

Jeffery Martin, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Cool and Moist Conditions

Unless you’re a grower with a dedicated walk-in refrigerator for cool, moist storage, these conditions will be hard to achieve. At home, we do the best we can and enjoy or preserve these vegetables quickly after harvest.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers keep for about a week in cool, moist conditions. Don’t store them next to apples or tomatoes. Perforated bags in a cool spot in the kitchen or refrigerator can help extend their shelf life, but they typically only keep for about 1 week.

Eggplants

Store in perforated bags in a cool spot in the kitchen or refrigerator, if necessary. They do best at around 55°F. At temperatures lower than 50°F, they can brown and get pulpy. Use eggplants within about 1 week.

Peppers

Store peppers in cool, moist conditions. Perforated bags in a cool spot in the kitchen or refrigerator can help extend their shelf life, but they typically only keep for about 2 weeks. Avoid storing peppers below 45°F; they will develop pitting.

Summer Squash & Zucchini

Harvest when the fruits are 6 inches long or less. They do best at around 55°F. Store in a cool spot or in the refrigerator in perforated plastic bags. They will keep for about 1 week.

Tomatoes

Store in a cool spot in the kitchen. They do best around 55°F. Do not refrigerate tomatoes; it affects their flavor, texture, and color. Tomatoes are best when you use or preserve them within about 5 days.

Watermelon

Watermelon does best when you store it somewhere cool and moist, around 55°F. It keeps for about 2 weeks. Many people store watermelon in the refrigerator, but watermelon will degrade if stored below 50°F for more than a few days.

Wolfmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Cold and Moist (32-40°F and 95% relative humidity) Storage

For the home gardener, root cellars are usually the best option for this type of storage. Just like with basements and garages, your exact situation may vary, so it’s worth checking on the temperature and moisture levels in your storage. You should also watch for any rodent activity. 

Perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator can also increase the humidity to mimic these conditions. This method works well for vegetables you use quickly, like asparagus, sweet corn, and lettuce, but it doesn’t work for long-term storage vegetables like turnips and beets. Solid plastic bags hold in too much moisture and don’t allow ventilation.

Asparagus

Store asparagus upright. It will keep for up to two weeks. 

Snap Beans 

Fresh snap beans will store for about one week. They do well in cold, moist conditions with temperatures at about keep at 40°F or above. Beans stored below 40°F will develop pitting.

Beets 

Beets are an excellent storage crop. Harvest beets when they’re between 1.5 and 3 inches in diameter. Trim the tops and store them in cold and moist conditions, and they’ll keep up to 5 months.

Broccoli

Broccoli stores for up to 2 weeks in cold, moist conditions.

Brussels Sprouts

Store in cold, moist conditions for up to 1 month.

Cabbage

Store in cold, moist conditions for up to 5 months.

Carrots

After harvest, trim carrot tops and store them in cold, moist conditions. They will keep for up to 8 months.

Cauliflower

Store in cold, moist conditions for up to 3 weeks.

Sweet Corn

Store in cold, moist conditions for up to 5 days.

Kohlrabi

Store in cold, moist conditions for up to 2 months.

Lettuce

If you harvest lettuce on warm days, chill it in ice water immediately. Store in cold, moist conditions for about 1 week.

Muskmelon

Store in cold and moist conditions. Keep above freezing. They typically keep for about 1 week. 

Parsnips

Parsnips are best when you harvest them after a light frost. Keep them in cold, moist conditions for up to 4 months, ensuring they have good ventilation. Parsnips sweeten after two weeks of storage at 32°F.

Peas

Store in cold and moist conditions for up to 1 week.

Potatoes

Harvest your potatoes after the vines have died back. Then cure them at 50-60°F for 14 days before storage. Generally, potatoes store best in dark, cold, moist conditions (32-40°F and 95% relative humidity). Potatoes may keep for up to 6 months depending on the variety.

Radishes 

After harvest, trim the radish tops and store them in cold, moist conditions. They will keep for up to 1 month.

Rutabagas

After harvest, trim the tops and store them in cold, moist conditions. They will keep for up to 4 months.

Spinach 

On warm days, dunk spinach in ice water immediately after harvest. Store in cold, moist conditions for up to 10 days.

Turnips

After harvest, trim the tops and store them in cold, moist conditions. They will keep for up to 4 months.

Preserving Fresh Produce

To make the most of extra fresh produce, preserve any surplus as quickly as possible. You can use freezing, canning, and drying to preserve your harvest for winter.

Freezing

Many vegetables freeze well, but most must be blanched before freezing. You’ll need to blanch vegetables like collards, green beans, carrots, peas, and broccoli so that they keep their color and texture in the freezer. You can also freeze cooked vegetables like tomatoes, pumpkin puree, and winter squash. Some gardeners also freeze fresh herbs like basil in an ice cube tray of olive oil for winter cooking.

To learn more about freezing vegetables, check out the National Center for Home Food Preservation section on freezing vegetables.

Canning 

Canning is a great way to preserve vegetables because you don’t need a lot of freezer space and they’ll be safe if the power goes out. However, most vegetables aren’t acidic enough to be canned in a boiling water bath canner. This means you’ll need a pressure canner that reaches higher temperatures to preserve vegetables like green beans, sweet corn, and carrots. Some vegetables, like zucchini, are only safe to can in certain ways, because their texture can affect the process. 

To learn more about safely canning vegetables, visit the National Center for Home Food Preservation canning section or the Ball Mason Jars Canning and Preserving Guides.

Dehydrating or Drying

Dehydrating vegetables is often overlooked, but it’s an easy way to put up a surplus. You can dry most vegetables in a simple home dehydrator, and most dehydrators have settings for specific vegetables. However, many vegetables must be blanched first for best results. To learn more about dehydrating vegetables, visit the Penn State Extension Let’s Preserve: Drying Fruits and Vegetables (Dehydration) resource.

You can also hang most herbs like basil and mint to dry in bundles at room temperature. Placing an upside-down paper bag over each herb bundle will keep any dust off. 

10 Tips to Prepare the Garden for Winter

The summer garden season is coming to a close. While we’re still working on certain projects like sowing bulb onions in cold frames and tending high tunnels of salad greens, we’re also resetting the garden for next spring. Even if you live in a warm, southern climate, there are still a few ways you can prepare your garden for winter. Here are ten tips to prepare your garden for winter and a great season next year.

1. Harvest or prepare to harvest warm-season crops before frost. 

If you still have eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, or squash in your garden, watch the weather carefully. If a light frost is in the forecast, cover them with old sheets of row cover. When a hard frost is in the forecast, it’s time to pull in the harvest. 

Our peppers are still thriving in the fall. We typically get an extra 1 to 2 weeks by covering them at night. Before the first killing frost, we uproot plants and place the roots in a bucket of water, storing them in a cool location, which can extend the harvest by 1 month.

Some tomatoes will ripen off the vine, and there are also many ways to use green tomatoes. Enjoy your eggplant and summer squash, or blanch and freeze them. Don’t forget to cure winter squash and pumpkins before putting them in storage.

Minnie Mizelle Collards in a greenhouse
Minnie Mizelle Collards

2. Prepare biennials for winter to save seed next season.

Biennial plants don’t produce seeds until their second year. If you want to save seed from your favorite biennial crops like cabbages, collards, beets, carrots, and hollyhocks, you’ll need to overwinter them. 

Many biennial crops can survive temperatures into the 20°Fs. If you live in a mild climate, you may be able to overwinter them right in the field or in a tunnel. They benefit from some cover, even just frost cloth and low tunnels. Place a thick layer of mulch over their roots.

In colder climates, you’ll have to store the crops indoors in damp peat moss or similar material over the winter before transplanting them out in spring. 

Learn more about saving seed from biennial crops. 

3. Put away garden supplies.

All of your garden gear will last longer if you keep it out of the winter weather. Do a garden tidy day and take down any trellises, move tools under cover, and put away irrigation tape, hoses, and landscape fabric.

Victoria Rhubarb Plants in a bed
Victoria Rhubarb

4. Mark perennials.

It’s easy to forget where you planted perennials. Go around your garden and place stakes to mark perennials like echinacea, asparagus, and rhubarb so you don’t accidentally disturb them next spring. 

5. Cover any bare soil.

Ground cover helps protect soil and beneficial microbes from erosion and freeze thaw cycles. It can also reduce weed pressure in early spring. Depending on your climate, you may be able to sow a winter cover crop. You can also mulch your soil with straw, leaf litter, grass clippings, brother natural materials. A dead flowerhead covered in frost

6. Leave standing flowers for pollinators and birds.

Many pollinators and beneficial insects overwinter in dead plant material. Songbirds will also gather seeds from dead flower heads during the winter. Leaving the flower stalks of plants like rudbeckia, dara, echinacea, and sunflowers standing in the garden can help provide a home for insects like solitary bees and food for birds like chickadees. 

7. Remove and burn or dispose of diseased or pest-ridden plant material.

While we love leaving some patches of dead flowers standing, you should always remove any plants that had issues with pests or diseases. This applies to crops that are disease-prone in your area, even if they were fine this season. Common examples include tomatoes with late blight, asparagus stalks with asparagus beetles, cucumbers with downy mildew, or hollyhock stalks with rust. 

8. Build up your compost pile.

Compost piles can keep working through the winter even in surprisingly cold climates. The key to making compost in winter is having a large enough pile to generate and retain heat. Build up your compost pile this fall and early winter by sourcing various brown or carbon-rich and green or nitrogen-rich material. Great examples include grass clippings, fallen leaves, plain brown cardboard, coffee grounds, jack-o’-lanterns, sawdust, seaweed, and wood chips.

9. Get a soil test.

A soil test will pinpoint exactly what nutrients your garden needs. Many people opt for a soil test in the spring, but it’s fine to collect soil samples in the fall. It also means you’ll get your results back much quicker. Laboratories often take weeks to process samples in the spring when they’re overrun with orders. A fall soil sample will get you quick results so you can start building healthy soil during the winter and early spring, depending on your climate.

10. Create a garden map. 

While you’re enjoying the fall weather, take a walk through your garden and sketch out this season’s layout. Keeping a record of what you planted where this season and some quick notes about how each crop performed can help you plan your layout for next season.

Gardening slows down in the fall, but it never comes to a complete halt. Preparing your garden for winter with these ten tips can help you get great production next season.

Best for Beginners: Top Ten Crops

Planning your first garden is a thrill. There are so many beautiful varieties to choose from, but it can also be overwhelming. If you’re just getting started, there are a few crops we always recommend to beginners, especially in the Southeast.

It can be tempting to till up an enormous garden, but my best advice for beginners is to keep it small. As gardeners, we all start the season with the best intentions, but with vacations, work, and family commitments, it’s easy for the garden to get away from us. A well cared for small garden will be much more productive than a neglected large garden.

Virginia Select Paste Tomato
Virginia Select Roma VF Paste Tomato

Tomatoes

When you’re getting started with tomatoes, stick to a rugged, disease-resistant variety. Many cherry tomatoes, like Matt’s Wild, Yellow Centiflor, and Black Cherry tomatoes, are vigorous and will bear until frost. They’re also suitable for growing in large containers, though you’ll still need a sturdy trellis or hoop.

If you love to cook or can, paste tomatoes are another great option. Varieties like Amish Paste, Yellow Bell Paste, and Super Italian Paste tomatoes are productive and disease resistant. For small gardens, try a determinate paste tomato. Determinate varieties (as opposed to indeterminate) grow to a certain height, produce a bunch of tomatoes, and then stop. They don’t require pruning or heavy-duty trellises; a single large stake or tomato cage will suffice. Some disease-resistant determinate varieties include Virginia Select Roma VF, Principe Borghese Drying, and Heinz 1350 VF Processing.

Easter Egg Spring Radishes
Easter Egg Spring Radishes

Radishes

Radishes are a thrill to grow, especially for kids, because they grow so quickly. You can enjoy spring radishes like Sparkler White Tip or Easter Egg in as little as 24 days! The entire plant is edible, including the roots, leaves, flowers, and seed pods. 

Radishes can also help you detect soil deficiencies early. If your spring radishes fail to grow or form spindly roots, you likely have nutrient-poor soil. Add finished compost to your beds before planting again.

Genuine Cornfield Pole Snap Bean
Genuine Cornfield Pole Snap Bean

Pole Snap Beans

Pole beans are among our favorite crops for beginners, and they’re disappearing! Pole beans are difficult to harvest with equipment, so many seed companies are switching to bush beans, leaving these heirlooms in the past. 

However, pole beans are a great option for home gardens. Pole beans have large seeds, great for getting young kids involved in the planting. You can use pole beans to create bean teepees or tunnels, which makes harvesting extra fun and doubles as great summer forts for kids.

Some great varieties for beginners are Kentucky Wonder (Old Homestead) Pole Snap Bean, Rattlesnake Pole Snap Bean, and Genuine Cornfield Pole Snap Bean.

Drunken Woman Looseleaf Lettuce
Drunken Woman Looseleaf Lettuce

Lettuce

Lettuce is a cool-season crop that’s great for beginners in the early spring. It grows quickly and is low maintenance. You can often cut baby greens for your first salad in just 30 days. 

For beginners, we usually recommend loose-leaf lettuce for a cut and come again option. Try our Wild Garden Lettuce Mix or a loose-leaf variety like Green Salad Bowl or Drunken Woman. If you want a lettuce that keeps well in the fridge, romaine is your best bet. Try a colorful romaine like Rouge d’Hiver (Red Winter) Romaine Lettuce or a heat-resistant variety like Jericho.

Utopian Ultracross Collard leaves
Utopian Ultracross Collard

Collards

Collards are members of the cabbage family and are one of the easiest greens to grow in the Southeast. They are much more heat and drought tolerant than kale and cabbage. Most varieties are also winter hardy from Virginia southward. Try some old favorites like Whaley’s Favorite Cabbage Collards, Georgia Cabbage Collards, or Nancy Malone Wheat Purple Collards.

If you’re looking for cold-hardy greens, try the Utopian Ultracross Collard. The Heirloom Collard Project grew this new variety from 21 collards that saved 8°F lows through the winter. By purchasing a pack, you have the option to join a Community Seed Selection (CSS) project. The aim is to save seeds from the most cold-tolerant and tasty collards while preserving a wide diversity of types and colors.

Feherozon Sweet Bell Pepper plant
Feherozon Sweet Bell Pepper

Peppers

Peppers thrive in the Southeast’s hot summers, and there are few pests that bother them. Many varieties are suitable for small gardens and container gardens. Generally, smaller peppers are easier to grow for beginners than large bell peppers. Smaller peppers usually ripen more quickly and are less likely to lodge or need additional support.

You’ll need to start peppers indoors. They will germinate and grow well only in warm soil. Smaller varieties like Balik Hot peppers, Doe Hill Golden Sweet Bell peppers, Jalapeños, Feherozon Sweet Bell, and Sweet Banana peppers are great options for beginners.

Sweet Genovese Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
Sweet Genovese Basil

Basil

Herbs can be tricky, but basil is typically very easy to grow. You can start plants indoors, or direct sow once the soil is 60°F or warmer. Basil is also incredibly productive. You only need a couple of plants for a huge harvest. Harvesting or pinching basil encourages the plant to grow bushier.

There are many great basil varieties to try from classics like Sweet Genovese to colorful varieties like Red Rubin or unique flavors like Cinnamon.

Marketmore 76 Cucumber
Marketmore 76 Cucumber

Cucumber

Cumbers are fun to grow and fun to eat. Some varieties are ready to harvest in as little as 55 days. You can trellis cucumbers to save space, but it’s also okay to let them sprawl over the ground. They’re great for blocking weeds. 

However, fungal diseases like Downey mildew can be an issue in hot humid climates, so if you’re growing in the southeast, we recommend you start with a disease-resistant variety like Homemade Pickles Pickling cucumbers, Marketmore 76 cucumbers, or Poinsett 76 cucumbers.

Magic Cushaw Winter Squash
Magic Cushaw Winter Squash

Squash

If you have gardener friends, there’s a good chance they’ve given you extra summer squash or zucchini. These crops are so prolific that it’s tough to keep up with just a few plants! Summer squash varieties like Dark Star zucchini, Golden Bush Scallop Summer squash, and Early Prolific Straightneck Summer squash can provide an abundance in a relatively small space. They also mature quickly, making multiple successions throughout the summer possible.

However, in parts of the Southeast, vine borers can wreak havoc on summer squash plantings. If other gardeners in your area deal with them or you don’t want to risk it, opt for a moschata type like Tromboncino Summer squash. This pest-resistant variety is a tasty summer squash when picked green and matures to tan like butternut squash. When fully mature, it has a sweet, nutty flavor, and you can use it like winter squash.

Winter squash is another easy-to-grow option. Just opt for disease and pest tolerant varieties like Magic Cushaw, Seminole pumpkin, and Mrs. Amerson’s Winter Squash. Remember to give these big squashes plenty of space.

Pink Zinnias
Pink Zinnias

Zinnias

Every garden needs a few flowers! Zinnias are among the easiest and most rewarding flowers to grow. Varieties like state fair mix offer a wide range of color in a single pack. Zinnias are annuals, but if you keep them dead-headed, they will continue blooming until frost. Harvesting a few flowers for cut flowers also encourages them to branch and produce more blooms. There are many great zinnias varieties and they are all easy to grow.

Planning your first garden doesn’t have to be difficult. Start a small garden this season with a few of our tried-and-true varieties. 

Saving the Past for the Future