11+ Seeds to Start Indoors this Winter

January may be the depth of winter, but it’s also when we begin starting seeds indoors for the coming season. Whether you’re new to gardening or just new to starting your own transplants, these are the seeds we recommend starting indoors over the winter and how to have success with them. 

At Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, we’re in USDA zone 7a. For northern gardens, or those much farther south, your ideal planting dates may be later than ours or even earlier. For exact planting dates based on your zip code, try our garden planner app. Seedlings in trays

Bulb Onions

The earlier you start onions, the better! To bulb up nicely, these plants need plenty of time to grow. In fact, we often sow them in cold frames as early as November. If that’s not an option, we recommend starting them indoors in January.

Cabbage seedlings in a plastic tray
Cabbage Seedlings

Cabbages

Cabbages are a wonderful, hardy spring crop. If you want cabbage quickly, focus on early varieties like Early Jersey Wakefield. We sow successions of cabbages for months, starting January 31st. Sow your first cabbages about 4 to 6 weeks before you plan to transplant them. 

For best germination, keep the soil temperature at about 75°F. You can reduce it to 60°F once your plants have germinated. For strong transplants, cabbages need strong, direct light and should be potted up as needed.

Maintain good air circulation around plants during all growth stages. Harden plants before transplanting, starting a month before the last frost. When plants have become properly hardened, they can stand a temperature as low as 20°F without buttoning up.

Brassica Seedlings

Broccoli

Broccoli thrives in the spring’s cool temperatures, so it’s a good idea to get your seedlings started on time. We begin sowing broccoli indoors on January 31st or about 4 to 5 weeks before transplanting out. 

You can transplant broccoli about a month before your last frost, but don’t transplant too early! If seedlings experience 20°F or lower, they may “button up” and only make tiny heads.

Cauliflower

Similar to broccoli, we begin sowing cauliflower indoors on January 31st. You can sow them about 4 to 7 weeks before your last frost so that they’re ready to transplant 2 to 3 weeks before that date. Celeriac

Celery & Celeriac

In Virginia, we sow celery and celeriac in between January 21st and February 15th. Both plants germinate slowly in about 14 to 21 days at temperatures between 65 and 75°F. For best results, use a sterile seed starting mix and sow the seeds no deeper than 1/8 of inch. 

Celery and celeriac perform best in areas free of temperature extremes so they can be a bit tricky here in Virginia where the summers get hot. We try to get them out early and use a thick mulch to keep the soil cool.

Brussels Sprouts Plant
Tony Alter from Newport News, USA, CC BY 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Brussels Sprout

While Brussels sprouts are quite cold hardy, we don’t actually start these plants until late spring, between May and June. Brussels sprouts have a long season, and we grow them for a fall harvest. 

Sow seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep in deep flats or pots. Transplant them out to the garden as soon as they develop several sets of leaves. tomato seedlings

Tomatoes

Sow tomato seeds indoors starting about 6 weeks before your last frost. We sow our tomatoes between February 21st and May 7th. Sow seeds about 1/4 inch deep in shallow flats. Tomatoes are warm weather loving plants and germinate best when you maintain a soil temperature between 75° and 85°F. 

When the seedlings have produced several leaves, transplant to 3-inch pots to promote root growth. After transplanting, keep seedlings at a lower temperature at night, 50° to 60°F, to promote earlier flowering in some varieties. Day temperatures should rise to 75° to 85°F. to promote rapid growth.

To develop hardy seedlings, expose your tomatoes to air currents and plenty of light. Water them sparingly, but don’t allow their growth to be checked by too little water. If you notice the leaves becoming yellow or purple, use a soluble fertilizer, fish emulsion, or liquid kelp to fertilize the plants. They need high levels of phosphorus, but too much nitrogen can delay fruiting. 

Don’t transplant your tomatoes out until your garden soil temperatures have reached 60 to 65°F. Ground cherries

Ground Cherries

See the tomato guide above.

Cisineros Grande Tomatillo
Cisineros Grande Tomatillo

Tomatillos 

See the tomato guide above.seashell cosmos, sesame, papalo, peppers and tomatoes seedlings

Peppers

Sow peppers indoors 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost date. Plant the seeds about 1/4 inch deep in shallow flats. Like tomatoes, they need warm soil, between 75° and 85°F. In peppers, soil temperature makes an enormous difference in germination time! In warm soil, pepper seeds typically germinate in about 5 days, but in cool soil, they may need up to 20 days to germinate. 

Peppers don’t like soggy soil. Avoid over-watering or they may rot. Water them with warm water to keep the soil moist but not drenched. 

Pepper production is also greatly reduced if the plants become crowded or rootbound. When plants develop several leaves, transplant them into 3-inch pots. Pot them up again as needed until you’re ready to transplant them outside.

Don’t rush to transplant! You must harden peppers off carefully. Set them outdoors for a few hours on warm days, being careful not to let them wilt. Transplant your peppers outdoors after the dogwood blossoms have fallen and when the average soil temperature is 65°F or above (usually a month after the last frost).

Some Tomato (and a few Eggplant) Seedlings After Transplant

Eggplants

Eggplants have very similar requirements to peppers (see the above section). Start them indoors about 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost. They need warm, moist soil to germinate well. 

Wait until 1 to 2 weeks after your last frost to transplant your seedlings. Don’t rush to transplant. Cold weather will shock eggplant seedlings and reduce production. 

Optional

  • Lettuce
  • Cucumbers*
  • Collards
  • Kale
  • Watermelon*
  • Marigolds
  • Zinnias
  • Cosmos
  • Basil

*All the starred crops are members of the cucurbit family. Cucurbits have delicate root systems. If you choose to sow them indoors, it’s best to use paper or peat pots so that you can transplant them without disturbing the roots.

Learn more about starting seeds indoors:

New & Returning Varieties for 2026

Each year we try to expand the catalog a little bit, thoughtfully adding new open-pollinated varieties to our offers. For 2026, we’ve been able to add five new varieties to our listings. We’ve focused on disease resistance for southern gardeners, and added a few new, more colorful crops for home and market gardeners to enjoy.

Manoa Wonder Pole Bean seeds
Manoa Wonder Pole Beans

Manoa Wonder Pole Bean (60 to 70 days)

This vigorous pole bean offers excellent resistance to root knot nematodes. Dick Hartmann at the University of Hawaii bred this variety by crossing Hawaiian Wonder and a nematode-resistant variety, Alabama No. 1. It performs well in tropical and subtropical climates.

The pods grow to 5 to 7 inches long and are filled with brown seeds. Manoa Wonder is ideal for eating fresh, canning, freezing, or leaving to mature for dry beans. For fresh eating, harvest the pods when they’re young and tender. 

Buy Manoa Wonder Seeds

Green Save Pole Beans
Green Save Pole Beans Photo by Jeff McCormack

 

Green Savage Pole Bean (80 days)

Green Savage was developed at Louisiana State University (LSU) as part of Dr. J.C. Miller’s campaign to release a stringless, prolific, straight-podded pole bean. Over three years, Green Savage had the highest yields in the LSU trials. 

Its disease resistance, flavor, and consistent, high yields make it an excellent choice for home or market gardeners. 

Buy Green Savage Seeds

Patchwork Pepper

Featuring striking variegated leaves and red and purple striped peppers, this variety is a beautiful addition to any garden. It’s a perfect choice for those looking to incorporate edible varieties into their landscaping.

Patchwork peppers are triangular-shaped with tasty, sweet flesh perfect for fresh eating or cooking. 

Buy Patchwork Seeds

Brad's Atomic Grape Tomatoes
Brad’s Atomic Grape Tomatoes Photo by Wild Boar Farms

 

Brad’s Atomic Grape Tomato

Brad Gates of Wild Boar Farms developed this largish cherry-type tomato to feature stunning colors and sweet rich flavor. The tomatoes ripen from lavender/purple to a vibrant mix of olive-green, red, and brown/blue with bright, multicolored stripes in shades of green, gold, lavender, and red. 

Don’t worry, Brad’s Atomic offers more than beautiful colors. The plants have superior disease resistance, and the sweet tomatoes hold well on the vine. Their size makes them easy to pick and perfect for snacking.

Buy Brad’s Atomic Grape Seeds

Pile of Fantasia Carrots
Fantasia Carrots Photo By Ujamaa Seeds

 

Fantasia Carrot

Can’t decide which carrot variety? Try Fantasia! The Organic Seed Alliance first grew this rainbow mix of carrots in 2022. Fantasia carrots offer sweet flavor in shades of orange, purple, and yellow. 

Kids will love helping you pull this variety from the garden, and it’s a great choice for market growers looking to add more color to their offerings. 

Coming soon!

Returning Varieties

We also have some old varieties returning to the catalog in 2026. We’re happy to have these varieties back in stock:

Tips for Success Sowing Beets and Carrots

Beets and carrots are among our favorite cool-season crops. They’re perfect for home or market gardeners and keep well in cold storage or in the root cellar. Unfortunately, many gardeners struggle with these hardy root crops, particularly getting them started. Beets and carrots can be sensitive to soil conditions, moisture levels, and pests as they get established, but with the right steps, they’re wonderful productive crops. Here’s how you can have success with sowing beets and carrots. 

Prepare the Soil

Preparing and amending your soil before seeding can make a big difference in germination and production for root crops like beets and carrots.

Soil Composition

Heavy, dense soil, like the clay found in much of the Southeast, can be tricky for root crops. Carrots especially thrive in loose, well-drained soil. To create these conditions in areas with heavy clay, you’ll need to amend your beds with plenty of organic matter. Finished compost, leaf mold, and peat moss are all good options. For best production, you want to loosen and lighten clay soil to a depth of 9 inches.

Raised beds can be an excellent option for beets and carrots in areas with less than ideal soil. You can read more about the pros and cons of raised beds here. Carrot seedlings

Soil pH

Carrots are fairly flexible about pH and do well when the level is neutral to slightly acidic, between 5.5 and 7.0. Some experts recommend between 6.0 and 7.0 for best root development. 

Beets are sensitive to soil pH. They need a neutral to slightly acidic soil between 6.0 and 7.0, though some people find that up to 7.5 is fine. Acidic soil below 6.0 will stunt beets’ root growth and result in a poor harvest. 

Soil Nutrients

If you’ve struggled with beets and carrots in the past, a soil test is a great place to start and will allow you to make necessary changes. Carrots need high levels of phosphorus and potassium in the soil for good production. 

Beets also thrive with relatively high levels of phosphorus and potassium. In addition, they need adequate amounts of magnesium and calcium. They’re also particularly sensitive to boron deficiency, which is often known as black heart. You may notice stunted growth, distorted or yellow leaves, cracked roots, or roots with black spots, corky areas, and rot. You can treat boron deficiency with liquid seaweed fertilizer or by applying 1 teaspoon of borax to a gallon of water for each 100 square feet of bed. 

Don’t add nitrogen-heavy fertilizer or fresh manure. Excessive levels of nitrogen in beets and carrots will promote foliar growth over root production.

Wood ashes are a great amendment for beets and carrots. Wood ashes help raise the soil pH, making it less acidic. Spreading it along the row of carrot seeds can also prevent wireworm damage. However, in spoils that are already alkaline, it may raise the pH too much.

Consistent Moisture

One of the biggest issues we see with seeding beets and carrots is poor germination because of inconsistent moisture. Carrots and beets must have constantly moist soil in order to germinate well. They also need consistent moisture throughout the season to produce large, sweet roots. Setting up a consistent watering schedule and mulching your plants are key to success.

Carrots have small seedlings, which are also susceptible to soil crusting. One way to conquer this is frequent overhead watering, with a shower attachment for a hose or watering can or by using a sprinkler. Older gardeners may also be familiar with the “board trick.” Laying boards or cardboard over rows of watered carrot seeds will hold in the moisture and keep the soil from crusting, but must be checked on frequently. You need to remove the boards as soon as the carrots germinate to avoid spindly seedlings. Fresh bundle of beets on a stump

Companion Plant

Companion planting can help carrots and beets thrive. Onions and garlic are great options for reducing pest pressure. We’ve found that inter-planting carrots with onions in a ratio of 1 to 2 reduces carrot fly damage by 70%. 

Mixing in radish seeds with beets and carrots can also help to reduce soil crusting. As the radish seeds germinate so quickly, they can also serve as row markers so you can keep up with weeding before your other seeds germinate. 

Thinning

Overcrowding can lead to poor production in root vegetables. The plants will compete for light, space, moisture, and nutrients if you don’t thin them. This is particularly true of beets as each “berry” contains multiple seeds. 

For beets, thin to 6 plants per foot for fresh beets, 3 plants per foot for beets used for winter storage, in rows 12 inches apart. For carrots, thin to 1 to 2 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart.

Add Mulch

Once your plants are up and the seedlings reach a few inches tall, it’s a good idea to mulch around your rows. Mulch helps hold in moisture, suppress weeds, and adds organic matter as it breaks down. 

Saving the Past for the Future