Summer Soil Building

Each spring, most gardeners give their soil a bit of attention. We add compost or amendments around planting time, hoping to sustain the seeds and transplants we put in the ground. As the harvests are hopefully rolling in in July and August, we really get to see how our soil is doing. Are our plants yellowing and showing a lack of nutrients? Are our heavy clay soils compacted and problematic for carrots? Is our sandy soil lacking organic matter necessary to hold moisture? Do our tomatoes have blight? These are some of the few things we may start to see. These observations mean it’s a great time to improve our soil health. Here are a few tips to get started with summer soil building:

The Golden Rule for Soil Building: Add Organic Matter

No matter what your soil is like—compacted clay, dry and sandy, or lacking in nutrients—the best thing you can do is add organic matter. Organic matter contains nutrients plants need to survive, helps build soil structure, holds moisture in dry soils, and helps wet soils drain better. There’s nothing it can’t do! 

How To Add Organic Matter:

There are several ways to add organic matter to the garden. When gardeners first get started, they often buy a load of finished compost, which can be pricey. Generally, the goal is to add at least one inch of compost to each bed per year to help replenish what we’ve taken. However, there are ways you can add organic matter without buying in compost:

  • Sow late summer and fall cover crops like buckwheat, iron and clay peas, winter wheat, and clover.
  • Add animal manure from trusted sources (some animal manure may be contaminated with herbicides and other chemicals from the hay and feed they eat).
  • Use thick layers of natural mulch that will break down over the season, including straw, old leaves, or woodchips.
  • Make your own compost from vegetable scraps, egg shells, coffee grounds, leaves, brown cardboard, etc. 
  • Try chicken composting or vermicomposting. 
  • Make biochar and add it to your garden beds or compost.
  • Add wood ashes from your campfire pit or woodstove to your garden beds. 

Adding organic matter can be challenging, and buying compost can be expensive. Start small! Small, well-maintained gardens rich with organic matter and nutrients will often be as productive as larger, less cared-for plots. Compost bin full of vegetable and fruit scraps

Other Ways To Build Soil Health This Summer

While organic matter is one of the best ways to care for your soil, it isn’t the only way. Here are a few other steps you can take this time of year to improve your garden for next spring. 

Sketch out, photograph, or record your plantings.

Soil-borne diseases and pests are common afflictions in gardens of the Southeast. A great way to mitigate these issues to some extent is to rotate your crops by family on a three-year rotation. This means you avoid planting anything from one plant family, such as the nightshades or Solanaceae, including eggplants, tomatoes, peppers, tobacco, and tomatillos, in the same bed for at least three years.

Summer is a great time to record what your garden layout looked like in 2024. Come spring, it can be a real challenge to remember what exactly was planted where. Take plenty of photos, sketch your layout, or take notes in an app to ensure next season’s garden planning is a breeze!

Get your soil tested.

Late winter and early spring mean an influx of soil samples for many labs and extension agencies. By sending a sample now, you can ensure you get and understand results in plenty of time to start making changes for next year. 

Minimize soil disturbance.

Disturbing your soils can contribute to compaction, kill beneficial insects, fungi, and microbes, and cause moisture loss. Avoid tilling when possible, opting for lower-impact equipment like broad forks.

Avoid bare soils.

We never want to leave the garden naked! Make sure your soil is covered whenever possible. Use natural mulches and cover crops like those we mentioned above whenever possible. These not only add organic matter to the soil but also keep soil temperatures cool, reduce erosion, and provide habitat for beneficial insects and microbes.

Eliminate compaction.

Some soils, like clay, are easier to compact than others, but all can suffer from compaction. No matter what soil type you have, you can minimize compaction in a few simple ways. First, use a no-till or reduced tillage system. Second, eliminate traffic in the garden beds whenever possible. Create permanent beds with paths between them that allow you to work the soil without standing in it. Lastly, avoid working in wet soils, especially with tractors and other equipment. 

This summer has been a tough one for gardeners and crops! Any weaknesses in our garden’s soil health have become more and more apparent as we face week after week of hot, dry weather. If you notice your soil isn’t as healthy as you would like, now is a great time to take action. Ordering some cover crops, starting a compost pile, or planning a no-till system can help you drastically improve your production in 2025.

7 Steps to Prepare for the Fall Garden

Fall gardening starts in the summer. While it may be way too hot to think about sowing or transplanting today, there’s plenty we can do to prepare. In this post, we’ll go over how to get your fall garden beds ready for another round of crops, plus how to get some of the trickier, cool weather crops growing in this summer heat. Get growing with us this week!

Remove Any Old Plant Material 

It’s best to give beds a tidy before we start sticking in new plants and seeds. Remove any of the crop residue and weeds. You can use some weeds and plant residue to bulk up your compost pile. 

However, I like to avoid using weeds that have gone to seed and any plants that may be carrying pests and diseases into the compost. Without careful management, it’s unlikely that home compost piles will reach the temperatures required to kill weed seeds, fungal pathogens, pest eggs, and other troubling issues that could be lurking in your garden debris.

Spread Compost in Your Fall Garden

As your summer crops have flourished, they’ve pulled nutrients from the soil to make the vegetables that nourish you! To achieve continued production, we need to offer our soil some nutrients by adding a couple of inches of finished compost to the top of the bed. Compost adds organic matter and nutrients and improves soil structure.

Determine Proper Sowing Dates

Precisely when you should sow crops depends on your estimated first frost date, the weather, and your chosen variety. 

Generally, we like to take a crop’s days to maturity, add 14 days for any crop we direct sow, and 14 to 28 days from any crop we transplant. Then, we count backward from our estimated first frost. This gives us our last possible planting date. The extra 14 accounts for the shortening days, causing slower plant growth in the fall. 

For example, let’s say we wanted to plant Capitan Bibb lettuce (62 days to maturity) in a zone 6b garden with an estimated first frost of October 20th. We’ll take 62 days and add 14 days to get a total of 76 days. If we look at a calendar and count backward 76 days from October 20th, we get August 7th. Therefore, we can sow Capitan Bibb lettuce up to August 7th in this garden and expect harvests.

Set Up Shade Cloth in Your Fall Garden Beds

As many fall crops need to be started well before it’s actually fall, it’s a good idea to give them some protection. Using shade cloth or row cover to provide shade, particularly in the afternoon, can help your plants thrive. Alternatively, you can plant in sections of your garden where trees, cucumber or beans trellises or other structures provide afternoon shade. 

Savoy Perfection Cabbage
Savoy Perfection Cabbage

Deciding What to Plant in Your Fall Garden

In most of the Southeast, you can sow plenty of crops in July to get a second crop in late summer or fall. Maybe you want a second round of the yellow squash your family has been enjoying, or perhaps you’d like some storage carrots like oxhearts to fill your root cellar for winter.  There’s plenty to choose from:

  • Cauliflower
  • Cabbages
  • Summer Squash
  • Beets
  • Beans
  • Peas
  • Southern Peas
  • Chinese Cabbage
  • Swiss Chard 
  • Collards
  • Corn
  • Carrots
  • Lettuce
  • Parsnips
  • Rutabaga
  • Broccoli

Starting Crops Indoors During Hot Weather

Much of the fall garden can be carefully started indoors while it’s still too hot to plant. This is also helpful for specific crops like lettuce and cabbages that we could direct sow but struggle with warm soil temperatures. For crops that prefer chilly temperatures, we can stick flats in the refrigerator or root cellar for the first day after planting. 

Gather Mulch

Mulching around your fall crops is critical to keeping the soil moist and cool. We like to start stockpiling mulch like grass clippings, wood chips, and straw near the beds so that it’s ready when needed. Don’t forget that mulch is a cure-all; watering consistently is still essential, especially during hot, dry weather.

 

Even if you’re not ready to plant your fall garden just yet, there’s plenty to do to prepare. Complete these tasks to prepare for your fall garden. Your future self will thank you!

8 Reasons to Grow Rhubarb (Even in the South)

We’ve seen an uptick in interest in adding fruit and perennials to the garden. Though it isn’t technically a fruit, one of our favorite options for mid-Atlantic growers is rhubarb, also known as the pie plant. This hardy perennial is great for small space gardeners, produces in early spring, and is easy to grow from seed, making it an exceptionally affordable option. 

The variety we grow at Southern Exposure is ‘Victoria.’ It’s an English heirloom named for Queen Victoria, first available in 1837. Today, it remains a popular variety with home gardeners and commercial growers. 

Reasons to Grow Rhubarb

We think rhubarb doesn’t get the praise it deserves. Here are some of the many reasons we appreciate this wonder crop and why you should, too:

1. Rhubarb makes some delicious baked goods, from the classic strawberry rhubarb pie to tasty new recipes like a rhubarb fool or rhubarb pound cake.

2. Rhubarb contains anthocyanins, a type of antioxidant that has demonstrated heart and brain health benefits and may reduce your risk for certain types of cancer and type II diabetes.

3. You can take your spring cocktails up a level with rhubarb harvest and easy recipes like Pinch and Swirl’s rhubarb cocktail.

4. Rhubarb provides a tasty, fruit-like crop long before most other crops are ready to harvest.

5. Rhubarb isn’t good just for sweets! You can use rhubarb stalks to create savory recipes like rhubarb and cinnamon red lentil curry or spring rhubarb salsa.

6. Rhubarb is high in vitamin K, essential for bone health, blood clotting, and cardiovascular health.

7. In zones 7 and 8, you can utilize the shade parts of your property by turning them into rhubarb beds. They will appreciate partial shade in these warm climates.

8. Rhubarb has an interesting history. It is native to the cooler climates in China, Mongolia, and Siberia, and the Chinese have used it medicinally for at least 5000 years.

Only rhubarb stems are safe to eat. Don’t eat rhubarb leaves as they’re high in oxalic acid, which can cause kidney problems.

Rhubarb stalksGrowing Rhubarb in Zone 6 and Lower

Rhubarb loves cool climates and thrives as a hardy perennial in these zones. Each fall, your rhubarb will die back to the ground with hard autumn frosts, but it will pop up again next spring and is usually ready to harvest by late May or early June. Harvest just a few stems at a time during the spring and fall, leaving some leaves to continue growing.

Growing Rhubarb in Zone 7 and 8

In our 7a gardens and the rest of zones 7 and 8, rhubarb tends to behave more like a short-lived perennial. Hot summer days are hard on it, so it’s essential to plant it somewhere that it will receive afternoon shade. It’s an excellent crop for making use of shady spots in the garden.

Growing Rhubarb in Zone 9 and Higher

Unfortunately, rhubarb isn’t a big fan of the long, hot summers, short winters, and fungal diseases found in the deep south. However, this doesn’t have to totally eliminate it from your garden plan. Rhubarb can be grown from seed annually in these climates. ECHO (“Educational Concerns for Hunger Organization”) in Florida has had good luck planting rhubarb seed in August and harvesting in March-May. 

Learn More About Growing Rhubarb from Seed

Growing rhubarb has many benefits, and knowing how to grow it from seed makes it an affordable option for any gardener. Learn to grow rhubarb no matter where you live with this comprehensive guide from Ira Wallace, the godmother of southern seeds. 

Saving the Past for the Future