Category Archives: Garden Advice

Cucumber Beetles: Management & Prevention

Spring is full of hope. It’s tough to think about pests as we’re dreaming of the season to come, but spring is a good time to prepare for common garden pests like cucumber beetles. Learning to identify, prevent, and treat cucumber beetles can help ensure you have a productive season. 

What are Cucumber Beetles?

When people say “cucumber beetle” they’re often referring to more than one species. Here in the Southeast, we typically see striped cucumber beetles (Acalymma vittatum) and spotted cucumber beetles (Diabrotica undecimpunctata). 

In other parts of North America, you may find other beetles that fall into the cucumber beetle category like western striped cucumber beetle (Acalymma trivittatum).

Adult striped cucumber beetles feature a dark head, dark antennae, and yellow back, typically with three distinct black stripes running the length. They are about 1/4 inch long. They feed on vegetables in the cucurbit family, including zucchini, cucumbers, yellow squash, pumpkins, watermelons, and winter squash.

Adult spotted cucumber beetles feature a dark head, dark antennae, greenish yellow backs with six black spots. They are about 1/4 inch long. In their adult form, these beetles may feed on cucurbits like cucumbers and squash along with other crops like corn, beans, cotton, and soybeans 

Besides the physical damage from feeding, cucumber beetles are also vectors for several plant diseases, including squash mosaic virus, cucumber mosaic virus, bacterial wilt, and Fusarium wilt.

Striped Cucumber Beetles on a damaged leaf
Striped Cucumber Beetles by Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University / © Bugwood.org

Cucumber Beetle Life Cycle

Both species of cucumber beetle overwinter as adults. They often remain in plant debris in or near the garden. Depending on your location, they leave their hibernation sites in mid-April to June as the temperatures rise. 

The adults feed on seedlings and can kill the plants. They lay their eggs near the base of cucurbit host plants. When their larvae hatch, they feed on the plants’ roots. 

The larvae grow and emerge from the soil as adults between July and September. They continue to feed on plants as adults before finding places to overwinter before cold temperatures set in.

Striped Cucumber Beetles in a Squash Blossom
D. Gordon E. Robertson, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Signs of Cucumber Beetles

Often gardeners will find the cucumber beetles on their plants. They feed on the stems, leaves, flowers, and fruit, often near the soil. Besides finding adult beetles on the plants, there are a few telltale signs that your garden may have a cucumber beetle problem.

You may notice plants wilting, particularly at the cotelydon stage on young plants. At this stage, large amounts of beetles may also completely defoliate or kill the plants.

On large plants, they create holes in the flowers and leaves. Large infestations may girdle plant stems, weakening or killing the plant. Infested plants may also be more susceptible to lodging in high winds. Cucumber beetles will also feed on the fruit, leaving scars and pockmarks on the surface.

You may also notice disease like bacterial wilt, Fusarium wilt, squash mosaic virus, or cucumber mosaic virus killing your plants. Cucumber beetles may spread these diseases.

Spotted Cucumber Beetle eating a leaf
Matthew T Rader, https://matthewtrader.com, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

How to Prevent Cucumber Beetles

Prevention is the best treatment! While there is no way to guarantee a cucumber-beetle-free garden, there are a few ways you can deter them and reduce their impact.

  • Provide habitat for predatory insects and animals. Researchers have found lower numbers of cucumber beetles in fields with higher populations of wolf spiders and carabid beetles. Encouraging these beneficial insects and other wildlife, like songbirds and toads which feed on the beetles, can help reduce their numbers.
  • If you have a severe infestation, follow a strict fall clean-up. As the adult beetles must overwinter, you can kill them in the fall. Thoroughly clean up any gardens infested with beetles. Destroy plant material and till the garden to exposure them to the cold temperatures.
  • Rotate your crops by family. Cucumber beetles often overwinter right in the garden. Practice crop rotation to avoid planting cucurbits into beds with overwintering populations.
  • Transplant your cucumbers and other cucurbits rather than direct sowing. This will protect new seedlings from cucumber beetle damage.
  • Plant late. If cucumber beetles are regularly a problem on your young plants, sowing or transplanting late may help. Cucumber beetles are most tempted in spring but young, weak seedlings. Waiting to plant until summer can reduce the damage to seedlings.
  • Plant trap crops 3 to 8 feet from your main crop. Certain crops like Hubbard squash are highly attractive to cucumber beetles. Plant them to lure the beetles away from your other crops. When they’re heavily infested, you can burn them to knock back cucumber beetle populations.
  • Try companion planting. Some gardeners have luck deterring cucumber beetles with companion plants. Recommended companion plants include nasturtiums, radishes, marigolds, and catnip.
  • Plant under row cover. Row cover is useful for excluding cucumber beetles from the plants. Just remember to remove it when the plants flower to allow for pollination. 

How to Treat Cucumber Beetles

While prevention is best, if you notice you have cucumber beetles this season, there are a few steps you can take. 

The first is to physically remove the beetles. Handpicking is tough with cucumber beetles, but if you only have a few plants, it may be worth it. Some gardeners have luck with rubbing petroleum jelly on the fingertips of their gloves to help them grab these little insects. 

A slightly easier solution is to use a handheld vacuum to suck up the beetles before dumping them into a container of soapy water.

Yellow sticky traps are another popular way to kill cucumber beetles. Keep in mind these traps can also capture pollinators and other beneficial insects visiting the plants. 

There are few chemical controls available (organic or otherwise). Cucurbits are sensitive, making them tough to treat in this way. One organic solution some gardeners use is neem oil. 

10+ Varieties Perfect for Canning

Canning is a great way to preserve any surplus harvest from the home garden. While it has lost some popularity to freezing vegetables, canning has the advantage of being shelf stable, an important feature if you live in an area with power outages. Canned vegetables can also help you cut back on your grocery bill and provide ready to go, healthy sides for busy weeknight meals. 

Basic Canning Safety 

There are two basic types of canning: water bath canning and pressure canning. Water bath canning is very simple. You boil jars of food in a pot of water for a specific length of time depending on the recipe.

The water bath canning method is a great way to get started for beginners. If you’ve cooked spaghetti, you can water bath can. Unfortunately, it’s only safe for “high acid” foods. Most vegetables are low acid. So to make them safe for water bath canning you need to add acidity. You can do this by making pickles, salsa, or relish which require acidic ingredients like vinegar. Other high acid foods include certain tomato products and fruit jams. 

While tomatoes were once considered acidic enough to can alone, most modern sources recommend adding lemon juice or citric acid to boost the acidity. Don’t worry, you won’t taste it! Add two tablespoons of bottled lemon juice or 1/2 teaspoon of citric acid per quart of tomatoes. For pints, use one tablespoon bottled lemon juice or 1/4 teaspoon citric acid. 

Note that tomato recipes with added vegetables like zucchini, peppers, or beans in vegetable tomato soup may not be acidic enough for water bath canning at all. Always use a tested canning recipe.

Pressure canning is a bit more involved, but is still easier than you’d think. Don’t be intimidated! To pressure can you will need a pressure canner, not a pressure cooker. These aren’t the same product. 

Pressure canning allows you to bring your jars of food to a much higher temperature than water bath canning. This kills bacteria and means you can safely can “low acid” foods like sweet corn, green beans, carrots, and lima beans. 

Great Crops for Home Canning

Whether you want to try water bath canning for the first time or are an experienced canner looking to fill the pantry with pressure-canned veggies, these are a few of our favorite crops.

Homemade Pickles Pickling Cucumber
Homemade Pickles Pickling Cucumber

Homemade Pickles Cucumber

Specifically developed for home gardeners interest in canning, Homemade Pickles is always a favorite. The vigorous plants have good disease resistance and produce medium green fruits with small white spines. The cukes are are solid and crisp. 

Harvest them at 1½ inches or larger, up to 6 inches. Homemade Pickles makes robust bite-sized pickles, slices, or large spears.

Amish Paste Tomatoes
Amish Paste Tomatoes

Amish Paste Tomato

Year after year, Amish Paste is one of the most popular canning tomatoes we offer. It’s also one of the largest sauce tomatoes we carry. The tall plants produce heavy yields of coreless fruits weighing up to 12 oz.

Despite the name ‘Amish Paste,’ the juicy fruits are best suited to making sauce.

Six pods of Blue Lake Bush beans sitting in a dish of the dried beans
Blue Lake Bush (Blue Lake 274) Bush Snap Bean

Blue Lake Bush (Blue Lake 274) Bush Snap Bean

These compact yet productive bush beans are a great choice for small gardens. Blue Lake Bush Beans are productive, disease resistant, and perfect for succession planting. The mostly stringless 6-8 inch pods are perfect for canning or freezing. 

If you aren’t interested in pressure canning, these beans also make delicious dilly beans! Dilly bean pickles hold their texture well and are great served alongside burgers at summer cookouts.

Thorogreen (Cangreen Bush) Bush Lima Beans
Thorogreen (Cangreen Bush) Bush Lima Bean

Thorogreen (Cangreen Bush) Bush Lima Bean

Thorogreen Bush Lima Beans have wonderful texture, and flavor even when canned. Their concentrated pod set makes them ideal for home growers looking to can or freeze.

Two ears of Aunt Mary’s Sweet Corn
Aunt Mary’s Sweet Corn

Aunt Mary’s Sweet Corn

Aunt Mary’s is an Ohio heirloom that dates back to the 1800s. Throughout the years it’s been passed down from seed savers, persevering its incredible flavor and selecting for canning. 

Aunt Mary’s is fairly quick to mature. In just 69 days, it produces stalks of 6 to 8 feet and 1 to 2 ears of 6 to 8 inches long each.

Three Root Grex
Three Root Grex

Three Root Grex

This vibrant beet yields roots in two shades of red and one striking orange. The beautiful roots look stunning in a canning jar whether they’re pickled or pressure-canned. Three Root Grex beets are ready to harvest in about 54 days.

Garden Huckleberry
Garden Huckleberry

Garden Huckleberry

Garden huckleberries are one of the few annual fruits you can add to the garden. They produce heavy yields and are excellent for canning. Use garden huckleberries to prepare wonderful jam, pies, and syrup.

Music Hardneck Garlic
Music Hardneck Garlic

Music Garlic

Garlic is rarely the primary star of a canning recipe, though some folks enjoy pickled garlic. However, it’s a classic ingredient for many canning recipes like salsa, dill pickles, and spaghetti sauce. 

Music garlic is one of many great options for canning. Music has a rich, pungent flavor that holds well even when canned perfect for those looking to create flavorful condiments, sauces, and pickles.

Sweet Banana (Long Sweet Hungarian) Sweet Pepper
Sweet Banana (Long Sweet Hungarian) Sweet Pepper

Sweet Banana (Long Sweet Hungarian) Sweet Pepper

These attractive peppers ripen from pale green to yellow to orange to crimson red. You can enjoy them at any stage, but they’re sweetest when fully ripe and red. Picked at the pale green stage, they make the classic pickled banana pepper rings. 

Sweet Bananas thrive in the Mid-Atlantic and are highly productive.

Jalapeño Hot Pepper
Jalapeño Hot Pepper

Jalapeños 

The classic salsa chile. Jalapeños produce medium-hot 1½ x 2½ in. thick-walled peppers usually harvested green, but can be left to mature to red, or removed from the plants to redden indoors.

Jalapeños are a perfect choice for canning salsa or jalapeño rings for topping nachos, pizzas, and sandwiches.

Chantenay Red Core Carrots
Chantenay Red Core Carrots

Chantenay Red Core Carrots

Chantenay Red Core produces blocky, broad-shouldered carrots with blunt tips. Their shape makes them adaptable for clay soils and their small size makes them perfect for canning. 

You can pickle carrots, but most folks use them for pressure canning. You can pressure can them alone as a side dish or can them using tested recipes for vegetable soup, beef stew, or other dishes. 

These vegetables just scratch the surface. You can use home canning to safely preserve most home-grown vegetables.

Green beans in a pressure cooker ready to be processed
Green beans in a pressure cooker ready to be processed
Gandydancer, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Canning Resources

Canning doesn’t need to be scary, but it is best to use tested recipes from trustworthy resources. Learn basic safety canning rules and your best judgement when looking for new recipes. To get started, here are a few great resources to learn more about canning and find tested recipes.

The National Center for Home Food Preservation

The National Center for Home Food Preservation is your source for current research-based recommendations for most methods of home food preservation. The Center was established with funding from the Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture (CSREES-USDA) to address food safety concerns for those who practice and teach home food preservation and processing methods.

Creative Canning 

Created by Ashley Adamant, Creative Canning puts together tons of recipes and safe canning guides. Ashely uses USDA guidelines where appropriate, as well as safe canning guidelines from state extension services, independent testing labs, and other reputable sources like Ball Canning, Bernardin, Mrs. Wages, and Pomona’s Pectin to create and source recipes and advice. 

Ball Mason Jars

Ball Mason Jars are one of the most common canning product suppliers in the United States. Their website includes safety guides, canning tips and ideas, and tons of fun recipes. 

Bernardin

Bernardin is Canada’s leading supplier of home canning products. Their website is full safe canning education and recipes. 

State Extension Services

Most state extension services offer some canning recipes and advice along with their gardening information. Many extension services also offer testing for pressure canners. 

6 Tips for Growing Great Basil

Basil’s rich culinary, cultural, and medicinal history has earned it the moniker, “the king of herbs.” The name basil actually comes from the Greek “basilikon” meaning “king.” Though the Greek’s gave it its modern name, the Indians first cultivated basil at least 5,000 years ago. Through the years, cultures around the world have grown basil. The Egyptians used it in the embalming process, the French used it to deter mosquitoes, and the Italians made Caprese and pizza. Thankfully, with a few tips, basil is easy to grow at home so you can join the herbal tradition.

Choose the right variety for your needs.

Basil varieties are as varied as their uses. Varieties like the large Lettuce Leaf Basil and Sweet Genovese are highly prized for their culinary use in Italian food. Others like Lemon Basil and Lime Basil offer bright citrusy flavors for soups, salads, and fish dishes. A few, like Kapoor Tulsi (Holy Basil) are renowned for their medicinal use.

They also have unique styles. Red Rubin and Dark Opal offer gorgeous purple leaves. Spicy Bush Basil offers intense flavor in a compact package perfect for patio containers or even window boxes.

This is just a few of the amazing basil varieties available. Be sure to do your research before selecting a variety for your garden.

Shop all basil here.

Provide your basil with appropriate growing conditions.

Basil is a heat loving herb. It thrives in warm, sunny locations and is sensitive to frost. While you can direct sow basil, if you live in an area with cool springs it may be worth starting it indoors where you can protect it from cool temperatures.

Once summer begins, basil grows great in most of the Southeast. However, northern gardeners and those that live in mountainous areas may want to select a sunny spot that’s sheltered from the wind when transplanting out.

Protect your basil from pests.

Young basil seedlings are susceptible to damage from slugs and snails. If you frequently find these pests in your garden, it’s a good idea to start basil in containers and then transplant them. Larger seedlings are less susceptible to slug and snail damage. You can also temporarily pull mulch back from plants to destroy slug hiding places, put out homemade slug beer traps, or use place boards as slug hideouts and regularly collect the residents.

Aphids are small black or green soft-bodied insects that suck the plant’s sap. You’ll often spot clusters of them on the underside of leaves. Thankfully, they’re fairly easy to deal with, especially if you only have a few plants. Often, you can wash them off with the hose or use a mixture of dish soap and water in a spray bottle to kill them. Some folks also find that putting coffee grounds around their plants helps prevent aphids.

Basil downy mildew sporulating on the abaxial side of a leaf.
Dr. Lina Quesada, NC State Vegetable Pathology Lab

Work to prevent Downy Mildew.

Basil is occasionally susceptible to a fungal disease called Downy Mildew. When a basil plant has Downy Mildew, you’ll likely notice yellowing on the tops of leaves, usually in between veins like sun scald or a nutrient deficiency. The purplish-gray spores form on the underside of the leaf, which looks a bit like a black mold or fuzz.

Unfortunately, this disease is easy to spread. It can come from infected plants and seeds or by spores which travel long distances on the wind. Thankfully, there are a few ways you can prevent and manage Downy Mildew in basil.

  • Space plants appropriately and prune as needed to encourage good airflow.

  • Only water the base of the plants and avoid splashing water on the leaves.

  • Monitor lower leaves as this is usually where the disease begins.

  • Remove and destroy any infected plant material.

Provide consistent moisture.

Basil produces best in moist, well-drained soil. It may not need much attention in spring, but as the weather gets hotter and drier, your basil will benefit from consistent watering. Ideally, you want to water deeply at least once a week. Once your basil is beyond the seedling stage, it’s also a good idea to mulch around the plants to help hold moisture in the soil.

Pinch your basil often.

Basil is one of the amazing crops that performs better with consistent harvests. Harvest basil with a technique called “pinching.” Once your basil reaches 6 to 8 inches tall, you can begin harvesting. Use your fingers to pinch off the tips of basil stems and a few leaves about a 1/4 inch above a set of leaf axils.

You’ll notice that little shoots are beginning to grow at the leaf axils. Pinching the tips and encouraging the side shoots and creates a healthier, bushier plant.

Growing basil will bring incredible flavor to your meals throughout the season. Follow these tips for success with this royal herb.